Paddling to Piirissaar

When someone says 'island', I usually picture juniper bushes, sandy shores, and the sound of the sea. But this time, that image got pushed aside — we decided to think outside the box. Piirissaar had been quietly sitting in the back of my mind for a while, yet it always seemed a little… odd. Small, quiet, reachable only by ferry. Driving there by car? Even stranger. But after a test paddle along the shores of Lake Peipsi, a clear idea took shape: we had to get there by kayak. And so we did.

We set off from Laaksaare harbour in the rain — but the moment the boats hit the water, the shower eased off. Lake Peipsi was glassy and still, with just the faintest shimmer. The evening sun sparkled across the surface as we drifted along at our own pace. A sunset over the lake, unhurried progress. We spent the night at Lõuna campsite, which had everything a tired paddler could ask for.

On the second day we did a full loop of the island. Piirissaar felt almost purpose-built for visitors — maps, signposts, a little shop, and a café serving all manner of good things. The weather was perfect: sunshine, not a breath of wind. We also picked up a local guide along the way — 'Pontu'. Some might simply call him a dog, but honestly, we couldn't have asked for better company. He trotted the whole island with us, even took a dip off the Titanic — from which we had to haul him back on board.

The return journey followed the northern shore — shorter crossings, more shelter. And what a shoreline it was! Little sandy beaches, tucked-away coves — a true hidden gem. Once we finally cleared the shelter of the island, we were met by choppier waves than we'd grown used to, with a lively bounce to them. It was a bit of a shake-up, but within half an hour we were in the lee of Liitsaar, and from there it was a straight run back to the harbour.

I'll definitely be going back. And the next time someone mentions heading to an island, juniper and the sea won't be the first things that come to mind — it'll be Piirissaar, Pontu, and those quiet little beaches along the northern shore.